
Unconventionally daring or plain ole treachery.
The so called Indo American cuisine offered by the upscale,ubercool INDIKA in Houston, with a desi looking swirl on top of the I is just that.
And definitely not the 'you will either- hate it or- love it' cliche will be judicial enough to label it. Its somewhere in between them. You end up loving and hating it at the same time and precisely for unequivocally similar reasons. Indika challenges our preconcieved notions of what is India and if not anything its dangerously daring at it.
Proudly spotted at one of the most expensive areas in the city, Indika has a sleek, soft lighted ambience which is delightfully fussy. And just maybe, you need reservations on weekends, but well we managed to get in without one. It gives you the mirage of a crowded busy place, all thanks to probably the so engineered acoustics.And thanks to that, you will many a times hear guffaws as roaring laughter.As long as its not a shriek or a cry, I am guessing you dont have to worry. Dont forget to dress for the part. In our city hopping formals, we definitely looked very much the part of under dressed Gandhi followers, well not literally..
I must confess, that the chef whoever it is has real imagination to conjure up the ecelectic menu which sorta look like Indo American fusion with a British twang. Take a look at the menu and you will get the picture. But dont be intimidated by it-Its a place with sophisticated food, but surprisingly with no whiff of daunting arrogance with it. The staff is not condescending and actually listens and offers suggestions and answers your queries patiently. The menu is more coherent, more of a piece. It doesn't take ethnic sides. But it fairly consistently mines a middle ground between Indian new American, timeless recipes of India carefully represented with the sassy touch of American cuisine.And Im supposing the menu changes with seasons to be included with more delightful varities of fusion recipes.
We tried on the tandoori chicken chaat salad, which was kind of interesting though I didnt really fancy the tandoor part of it. It was cold yet inspiring enough. The appetizers looks as if they can be ordered as entrees and I guess its your choice on whether to or not.For the main entree, both of us shared 'Local free range chicken in a coconut, cardamom and white pepper curry, sauteed greens, brown basmati khichri' with complimentary sides of dal and raita. The chicken was a disappointment for me, but Sibz liked it.So I am guessing its a matter of sensitivity to certain tastes. But what blowed me off was the sauce/curry and the greens. It was bare minimum to tickle your tastebuds,but surely it was one of the most wonderful sensations of gustatory heaven I have had in a long time.
We rounded it off with 'Spiced guava, coconut and mango sorbet' as dessert and was definitely a savory reward befitting its precedents. It completely was an explosion of spices which is quite unlikely for a dessert. I have never fancied spicy desserts, if such a thing exist-but boy, this sorbet was something out of the world. It was succulence of mango,tenderness of coconut and sublime softness of guava heavily laced with sweet,sour and tangy. I have no clue on how the chef managed such a feat, but Im guessing it also owes to the blueberry pickle sauce he gave on side. I mean ,who gives pickle sauce with a dessert?The dessert was not something you go ooh lala from the start. You are heavily scpetical with the first dole and slowly yet firmly the taste grows within you and you are glad that you experimented.
The dishes, individually and all together, strive for a quality that might well be called wholesomeness and we were just the right amount of 'full' without feeling queasy or sick about it.They also offer variety of teas which we decided to try next time. The prices are quite on the higher side which Im sure is not for the food, but for the place. But, it can very well be those once in six months type of restaurent where you can go when you feel rebellious and wanna do something different mode.They call themselves 'progressive Indian with local ingredients' and well, I will probably fullheartedly agree with the progressive part.I wont say, its one of the bestest I have ever been-but its definitely worth a try.
